Saturday, June 11, 2005

Coal What?

Our recent trip to Glasgow highlighted the need for me to expand my blog to educate you readers in the way of the vegetable. Conversations and comments over the past few weeks have clearly indicated that you are confused by anything more unusual that a potato, so I'm planning to include a seasonal report on the 'Vegetable of the Month' for your benefit.


Kohl Rabi

Kohl Rabi (or Kohlrabi), Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes L.
A brassica of northern Europe originating in the 15th century, popular in Germany and latterly the Indian sub-continent. Kohl (German for Cabbage) and Rabi (as in Turnip - check your Latin dictionaries), it's perhaps not surprising to find that Kohl Rabi is also known as the 'Cabbage Turnip'.

Unlike many other brassicas, Kohl Rabi is grown primarily for its swollen stem, and not its leaves (although the fast growing nature of the plant mean the leaves can be used in a similar way to spring greens, if you like that kind of thing). A fast growing vegetable, Kohl Rabi is often grown as a catch crop and can take as little as 8 weeks from sowing to be ready for the dinner table. A hardy crop that is tolerant of drought, Kohl Rabi has a long growing season. Traditionally green varieties are grown in spring and summer and purple varieties in autumn, although there is no real reason for this to be the case.

Kohl Rabi should be harvested at a size no larger than a tennis ball for the best flavour and texture. If harvested when smaller than this it doesn't need to be peeled. Kohl Rabi has a fine crunchy texture, similar to that of turnip, but a delicate yet distinctive flavour more akin to mild broccoli. This mild flavour and excellent texture lends raw Kohl Rabi as an excellent addition to a salad or as part of a stir-fry. Alternatively it can be used to create an excellent soup or a general vegetable dish. I would say that to retain the best flavour and texture, Kohl Rabi probably shouldn't be boiled, but then again that's my advice for most fresh vegetables. Try steaming or oven baking for a healthier option. Older Kohl Rabi have a more starch texture and a less refined flavour, and need the fibrous skin peeling before use. Often growing as big as a grapefruit, the older vegetables are best used in stews and casseroles. Ideally pick the vegetables earlier than this, par-boil and freeze.

This year I am making success ional sowings of a green variety 'Olivia'. The first sowing in late February started its harvest in mid-May, and should run through to the middle of June. It is currently yielding a high quality crop with little surplus, so if you want to try some of mine, tough luck!

Kohl Rabi Gratin (serves 2)
5-6 Kohl Rabi
2 Onions, sliced
Handful of fresh green herbs (parsley, oregano, chives)
2 oz Butter
2 tbsp flour
10 floz Milk
4 oz Cheese, grated
Breadcrumbs



Remove Kohl Rabi leaves and cut off the root. Peel if large and rinse. Slice into 1/4" thick rings.



Grease a pyrex dish with a little butter and fill with alternate layers of the Kohl Rabi, Onions and herbs seasoning lightly with black pepper.
Create a cheese sauce from the butter, flour, milk and cheese and pour over the top.


Cover and place in a pre-heated over, 190c for 1 hour


Remove the cover and sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Return to the oven for 10 minutes to brown off.



Serve with a green salad or try the Kohl Rabi greens (NB:- note that the greens are green, and not a khaki grey colour! They have been dropped into boiling slightly salted water for 2-3 minutes only. Ensure that any thick stalks are removed before cooking. These greens are quite tough and bitter, and are well suited to a dish such as colcannon)

This dish can be 'stretched' with layers of potato, turnip or other root vegetables. Cooking time can be accelerated by par-boiling the Kohl Rabi.